In Gratitude For Surfing (Because Surfing is Medicine)

I was lucky enough to be introduced to surfing at a young age and it’s been a constant throughout the majority of my life.

It’s been there through the good times, and the bad, and it’s taught me so many lessons and given me so many gifts that extend far beyond the shore.

A big part of surfing is learning to navigate the ever-changing and often unpredictable lineup. Similar to life, the ocean and her waves are influenced by many different factors, most of them being totally out of our control. And as surfers, we learn that the key to navigating these often tricky lineups is to stay present and remain calm.

Every time I paddle out I’m reminded, time and time again, that I can’t control the currents, the crowds, or the inevitable closed out sets. It’s all a part of surfing, just as the challenges and set backs are all a part of life. But I’m empowered when I remember what I can control: How I choose to show up, how I choose to respond, and how I choose to navigate the ebbs and flows.

If you wanna feel some feels, enjoy this snippet of an interview with 1988 World Surfing Champ, Barton Lynch: